BMW E30 M20B27 turbo

This is my own side project I'm working on a bit, it doesn't really run on the road as it is constantly being rebuilt - To make it faster. ;) I bought the car in Christmas 2012 and in the spring of 2013, it was painted so it was tolerable to look at.

It was running Megasquirt at the time I got it. It was replaced quickly with Vems engine control and a new wiring harness.

Drive with:
T3 / T4 turbo for 400 hp.
Cutting ring pack of 2mm.
For really good lubrication and oil pressure, I use Sunoco 10w60 oil, and Danco oil Tec2000

Drive with 325hp. In the summer of 2013, I went to DHB and a trip to Rudskogen motor center in Norway - Super fat. Can be recommended to everyone. :) However, I got a little too eager and had a little hard to hold back - It resulted in 21 minutes of full-throttle around the track and way too hot oil. :) So when I got home the engine was not too good ..;)

It turned into a new 325 cylinder head with oversized valves, ported and made 100% in order, as well as a new 2.7 liter ETA engine.

I was not proud of the original intake manifold - So I started the conversion to Jenvey damper housings and a custom-made plenum chamber. It was a very large project which took approx. 14 days full time. But below you can see the result.

Above you see the super delicious V-band assembly from stainless steel pipe to the custom made aluminum reduction. Custom made in CNC lathe

The system with throttle bodies and CNC turned funnels inside run perfectly!

With the 375 hp, I was in Skive and driving 402m., where I made a time of 13,373 sec and 179.6 km / h in exit speed.

After rebuilding and adjusting the engine management, it runs at 375 hp. and a fine torque, it results in the gearbox breaking and a new one must be added, it becomes a 525 TDS gearbox with a gimbal from an E36 328I - Early model. It has somewhat lower gearing but fits well with a 402 meter as it has a top speed of approx. 235 km. in 5th gear.

Will pt. like to drive with Boost in Gear (ie I can determine how much charge pressure it runs within all gears) as I can then avoid too much wheel spin-in 1st and 2nd gear at a 402 meter.

To be able to boost in gear, you must have a speed input from the wheels that do not pull. Here I have used the ABS signal from the left front wheel. However, there were some problems with the signal in the beginning. But it was because it was old and rusty, so it had to be cleaned. The signal coming from the wheel is an inductive signal and must therefore be converted to digital. There you put a small module on before it enters the engine control. You can then calibrate how fast the car is driving in the various gears and revolutions - and it can calculate which gear it is driving in.

I have currently (09-09-14) reached the point where it runs with 2 different charging pressures. Approx. 1 bar at low charge pressure and 1.3 bar at high charge pressure. It produces 355 hp. and 401 hp.
Doesn't this make it a little easier to keep it in 1st and 2nd gear?

Something worth noting is that when it runs with charge pressure control, the charge pressure comes a little earlier and gives more effect. You can see this on the red rose, it is further up faster than the black one. This is due to no pressure coming to the actuator which is then better at keeping the wastegate completely closed and spooling the charging pressure on something before!

Update 18-09-2014

Mounting the AEM ignition / ignition coils

Had a little trouble with a lot of noise in my wiring harness and I could not get the Wheel speed sensor to work properly. Therefore had a scoop on and could see that it was noise. Therefore ordered 6 pcs. AEM ignition coils home with built-in power output so no noise could get to the box from there. They were mounted on the original valve cover so only very small ignition cables were needed. Then mounting drive wheel speed input perfectly. Below you can see pictures of the assembly.

As you can see in the picture below, I have not moved the vacuum distributor yet, so it looks extra messy.

There are an incredible number of wires to be mounted on these ignition coils - 5 wires in each. It is to conduct induction voltage down away from the motor control.

In the end, it came to look like this. See it looks super nice and stylish when there is only what is needed. In addition, I have also moved the vacuum distributor down under the custom made intake manifold.

Boost in Gear works perfectly !!

Like this... Now it finally works with a boost in gear - and if you're crazy it's cool to drive with!

Now that I have no problems with noise, wheel-speed works perfectly. This has meant that only the setup of the engine control had to be changed. I have made a table of the desired charge pressure in all gears and then how much the 3-way valve should work.

Below you see how I control the charging pressure with the boost valve - It is all done electronically via Vems motor control. However, it will not normally say 100% in all the tables, but it is due to my wastegate giving way differently. However, the engine control itself can turn down the valve if the charging pressure exceeds the charging pressure I have set as "target".

Below you see which charging pressure the engine control should try to hit - ie 1.1 bar in 1st and 2nd gear and then 1.36 bar in all other gears.

So all in all, it works perfectly. It does not make the wheel spin-in 2nd gear and thus I would like to get a little faster acceleration.

New Toyo R888 slick tires fitted

To get a better grip I chose to order new tires at home, the choice fell on a super well-known slick tire - Toyo R888, a cheap slick tire you can also use on the road in Denmark. Since I had just fitted the tire, of course, it had to be tested, I have never ridden with slick tires before - So I was actually a little disappointed, as I had expected they just stuck really well. -and they do too! Should have just warmed them up really well and driven a little more on them as it is as if the first time they just need to be driven to.

Well now I've got the boost in gear to work so it only runs at 0.9 bar in 1. & 2nd gear and approx. 340 hp. then it does not make the wheel spin-in 2nd gear but to 400 hp and 470 nm. So it is not quite enough when you only use it for 402 meters. Then will be enough for a pair of balloon tires next year. : P

Hopefully, there will be some video to watch after the weekend .. :)

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